Pearls
A pearl is produced by a living organism,
which makes it an organic gem. Pearl formation starts when a
foreign object gets inside the mollusk’s shell and irritates its
sift tissue. The mollusk tries to reduce the effects of the
irritant by coating it with layers of smooth nacre.
People have coveted natural pearls as symbols
of wealth and status for thousands of years. A Chinese historian
recorded the oldest written mention of natural pearls in 2206
BC. Homer mentioned pearls in epic poems. And Julius Caesar was
known to have a huge admiration for pearls. King Henry VIII and
his daughter Queen Elizabeth I adorned themselves with natural
pearls as did royalty throughout Europe.
Akoya
Akoya cultures pearls
are produced mainly in Japan and China in the Pinctada fucata
oyster. In Japanese language, the common name for the oyster is
akoya, so the cultured pearls are also called akoyas.
Japanese akoya
cultured pearls typically range fro 2mm to 9mm, with an average
size of 6mm to 7mm. The classic akoya is white with rose’
overtone and excellent luster. Akoya cultured pearls are fairly
uniform in size and shape.
South Sea
South Sea cultured
pearls are produced principally in Australia, Indonesia and the
Philippines in the Pinctada maxima oyster. The two varieties of
Pinctada maxima, gold-lipped and silver-lipped, account for the
characteristic golden and silver-coloured South Sea cultured
pearls.
South Sea cultured pearls typically range
from 10mm to 15mm with an average size of 13mm.
South Sea cultured
pearls typically have a soft, satiny luster, rather than the
mirror-like surface often seen on the finest akoya cultured
pearls. Large, round, high-quality South sea cultured pearls are
rare so these strands can be very costly.
Tahitian
Tahitian cultured
pearls are produced mainly in French Polynesian lagoons.
Tahitian cultured pearls are grown in the Pinctada margaritifera
oyster. The cultured pearls typically range from 8mm to 14mm
with an average size of 9.5mm.
The common name for
their oyster is black-lipped oyster. It’s the only oyster that
regularly produces the unusual colours that characertise
Tahitian cultured pearls. In the trade the colours have names
like peacock, aubergine and pistachio.
Freshwater
The mollusks that
produce freshwater cultured pearls are called mussels. There are
many species of mussels that produce freshwater cultured pearls,
but the main producer is the Hyriopsis cumingi mussel.
Today, China produces the great majority of
the world’s freshwater cultured pearls. The production volume is
many times more than all other cultured pearls types combined.
They come in a variety of shapes and sizes that typically range
from 4mm to 11mm.
Taking Care of
your Pearls.
Cultured pearls are not the most durable of
gems, but if they are properly cared for, they can retain their
original beauty for generations.
Cultures pearls can be scratched or abraded.
They should be protected from contact with metal or harder gems.
Store cultured pearls in a cloth pouch or wrapped in a soft
cloth.
As organic gems, cultured pearls are part
water. Maintaining that moisture is one key to cultured pearl
stability. Heat can dry cultured pearls and lead to
discoloration and cracks in the nacre. To keep cultured pearls
from dehydrating keep them away from heat and excessive
dryness.
Another key to cultured pearl stability is
everyday wear and care. Many chemical and all acids attach
cultured pearls. Perfume, cosmetics, hair spray and acids in
perspiration can damage nacre. Women should put on cultured
pearls after they have applied cosmetics and used hair-care
products. To help cultured pearls keep their luster, wipe them
with a soft, clean cloth after each wearing. Occasionally using
a dampened cloth helps them retain moisture as well.
Cultured pearls should be thoroughly cleaned
periodically, especially if they’re worn often. Warm, mild soapy
water is what works well with pearls. Rinse and lay wet cultured
pearls on a towel to dry. If string is left wet it can stretch
and attract dirt. If they are worn frequently it’s a good idea
to restring them about once a year or when the string shows
wear.